Wednesday 26 February 2014

It's a blong story

Me bloggy
        We were in  a taxi to the Palomino collectivo from the Santa Marta mercado, and about to go to the island of Mucura after this. But something inside me screamed out something different. I have been really interested in the island of San Andres since I arrived in Colombia. It is known for being the sea of seven colours.  The island is 32km around  and absolutely beautiful. True paradise. Really......  So when the cabbie pulled over at the mercado, I blurted out,! Wait!  Cartagena ! Autobus !  He looked back with a half smile, happy to take me wherever I pleased, but all the while knowing I had a spontaneous sub-plan emerging. So that's how I stumbled upon the new love of my life.... Mr. San Andres. ;-) but we will get to that.
        The bus from Santa Marta to Cartagena was more like a large van. I am unsure why they do this, maybe safety reasons. Regardless I rode up front with the driver like a champ, for,.....tourist reasons. Lol camera and journal in hand. Due to the split second decision , we had no pre planned hostal. So we did the extremely non recommended move of asking the cabbie. Aaaand of course he took us to his buddy's mid renovation hotel on the beach where he got a cut. He asked if we wanted the playa (beach) or the centro (downtown) . So I assume he had a cut wherever. But obviously this Pisces picked the beach. Cartagena is not cheap. So we decided to spend as little time as possible here. We stayed at Hotel Isla De Capri. The rooms were new and nice, but the rest was in complete construction mode. The room had huge windows facing the beach. No balcony. But the windows were so large that their windowsill became my perch.  Perfect for gazing over the MASSIVE waves and hearing their roar. Cartagena has a very long surf and many barriers to calm the water force.  So any Pacific swimming here would be risky at most times. We had no time anyway. 
       The hotel receptionist was acting quite odd. Refused to allow you to leave the hotel with your room key......ummmmmm huge red flag. He said you had to leave it at reception while you were out. So I am thinking,...." What the heck is the point of a key?!?! "  It's all of my things,  now in the security of a man, who is acting quite strange, who I am now supposed to trust ? Hah needless to say we didn't go out for food that night. And this happened after I already had some weird suspicions of his behaviour. Twice we walked in on him with my passport copy enlarged on his computer monitor in a copy and paste program. It resembled Microsoft Word  and Paint in one. And upon approaching him quietly from behind, he X'd out the screen when I gave him the 'wtf are you doing' look.  At this point I made a letter to the Canadian  fraud agency for good measure. But he told me that is was for Colombian immigration purposes. There is not much info in this topic online. But it does exist. And it is new and was implemented only at the end of last year. This was our first encounter with this. The ENTIRE time in Colombia. And it was just funny how we never caught Ryan's passport on the screen once. And even when Ryan caught him with mine up again, he was writing information down on a piece of paper which he quickly hid when we spoke. If nothing's wrong, why hide it? Riiiiiight? Anyways. Hopefully he was just a strange character. Lol hopefully. 
       We caught a swift 1 1/2 hour flight from Cartagena to San Andres.  What a  PHENOMENAL decision that was. It is called the sea of seven colours and it is extremely evident why, when you fly into this island. I have flown into various Caribbean locations many times, and this site was shocking. Like mouth dropped open and eyes open wide. Obviously there was no camera available for this......oooobviouslyyyy. But my mental picture will remain. It's actually hard to get this image out of your head. It is now my happy place ;-) .  We got right into a cab and stayed at Hostal El Viajero. It is quite reasonable considering the location. It is situated slightly uptown from the beach. But the walk is very close. You can see the turquoise sea colours from the balconies and top floor. It was very clean and the common kitchen area was convenient. Breakfast included helped to save a couple bucks too. So key waking up to a continental breakfast looking over the ocean. And surprisingly, no one really ever took the bar seats with the view! They all sat at the tables. Haha more for us.  We were only able to spend 3 nights here due to lack of time. Had we known the relentlessness of this paradise's beauty we would have left Taganga long ago. ....sorry Taganga, but caaaahhhh moooooonnnn. 
       The first day we just enjoyed staring at everything around us. Soaking in the fact that we were actually here and trying to figure out what we did to deserve this . Oh yeah, it's called research lmao. The decision was just made a little too late. Therefore I will be saving up to return here with an entourage. It would be selfish to keep this hidden gem to myself. I have NEVER seen water with such a drastic colour change so often and abruptly. You can literally see the line at which it changes from bright aqua, to glowing turquoise, to deep royal blue, to blue-green. It's unbelievable. The white sand is is so soft, you could bury your feet for hours in pleasure. The afternoon we arrived we went to the beach in the evening. I looked behind me and saw something awesome. A man in 'The Mask' mask. I was like omg Jim Carrey! Lol so we had a brief photo op. he continued to take funny pictures all along the beach. So funny. All I could say was yessssss. 
       On our first full day we rented a Jeep golf cart so we could tour the island ourselves. The only way to go is to rent a vehicle. We stopped at many locations. This island has SO MUCH to offer. The downtown core is confusing and has an annoying amount of one way street traps.  Essentially you want to be on top of getting to know your map. But unfortunately, the only way to know is by actually driving and making the same mistake multiple times. The following is what we accomplished in one day with a vehicle. 
       We began the day by visiting the Morgan people pirate museum. This was very cool. The antiques from the pirates are serious relics. Their tools were simple and innovative. They just simply made sense. Obviously my favourite part was the collection of old pirate weapons. There were many different types of muskets and daggers. Swords and hooks from hands. Canons and more. It was extremely hard not to grab them and play with them. We got to touch the coconut dagger though and take a picture. I had no idea Captain Morgan was a real man. Who pillaged and played on the Island of San Andres and Provedencia.  
       After this we went to a cliff diving spot. Straight into a volcanic rock enclosed swimming inlet with bright turquoise crystal clear water. It was extremely refreshing. The kids there didn't believe the height of our Canadian cliffs that we jump off of. From there we went straight to West View where there is an awesome waterside right into the ocean. There is diving and aqua helmets. Which look like astronaut helmets with oxygen lines attached so you can walk underwater. There is also a huge diving board off the side of the cliff. It felt VERY strange to be that high up on something bouncing and bending. Ya want to use the pop in the board so badly. But it was so high up I just jumped off of it like a cliff. I was scared of bursting into the air awkwardly and smacking onto the water too hard. If you just jump on it you will go much higher than the actual jump. West view also has a great bar and restaurant. 
      After this , we continued along the only road that surrounds the island to the natural blowhole. It's a hole in the rock , close in proximity to the ocean. When there is a large swell the water pours aggressively into whatever tunnel leads to this unique formation. If you time it right and stand over the hole you will have your socks blown off. My hair stood straight up like the Bride of Frankenstein !!! I almost lost my necklace and my sunglasses flew through the air. At high tide times of year it becomes a geyser shooting water high into the air. Very cool to see, and to feel it is a different story. 
      There are so many beaches along the way so leaving early in the morning to truly enjoy your time is wise. The beaches have lots of natural pools so you can just roll around in the sand in the heated shallow areas where the waves break into calm "natural kiddie pools" . I loved these. I felt the true taste of paradise having the freedom to stop at these whenever I wanted. There was lots of cliff action, so these relaxation breaks were a perfect contrast. 
      Once we had soaked up a little taste of paradise, we continued on to the Baptist church in La Loma. Iglesias Bautista Emmanuel, established in 1847. The view from the church is amazing. We literally climbed up into the rafters and the bell tower. It was a peaceful 20 minute chill sitting  in the very top enjoying the beautiful view accompanied by the calming breeze. The church is located on the highest point in the middle of the island.  
       Shortly after this, we went to the Big Pond. This is not a very popular tourist attraction. We were only made aware of this because a man in the street flagged us down. He informed us of 2 places. The Big Rock and the Big Pond. He gave us a very informative tour through the mangroves and the forest. We picked some unripened mangoes off the trees to eat. And ended up at the Big Pond. Here he made alligator calls and we played with some pond turtles. He said the alligators were local pets. We attempted to go to the Big Rock but ran out of time for our Jeep golf cart rental return, so we had to go back. But 2 days after this, we actually rented a reliable vehicle. A Ranger cart with some real kick. Upon our first test drive, our first thought was ...." Why on earth didn't we rent this the first time!?". The rates are so reasonable , and it is SO MUCH FASTER!  So we went back to all of the same amazing places again. But the Big Pond was the most unbelievable the second time. When we attempted to re enter, we were approached by a man on a motorcycle. He continued to show us his identification and tell us that there are many "pirate guides" who will make up guide t-shirts and take you to this location. He asked if our guide  was inside the gate or outside. We said we didn't remember. ( he was outside)  So upon the premise of only taking some pictures, he allowed us inside, making sure we knew there were people here pretending to be guides . We drove down the entryway and got approached by a man who tried to say we had a mandatory entry fee for the locals. We argued because the last time we came there was no fee. Just the "pirate guide" fee. The man who approached us rectified the situation saying we were just here for a picture. When we got to the pond a young boy came down from the amazingly fun looking Rasta farm.  We had just discussed that we had forgotten something very important to wildlife sightings. Bread! He had a full bag. And it was much cheaper than anything these "fake guides" were charging.  The farm was the boy's home. He has 6 alligators who came REALLY close!!! It was an unreal experience. When we had finished there, the previous man came down screaming and yelling losing his mind . Yelling " the boy!!! What did you give the boy?!?! " . I laughed and said  "duuuuuude you need to relax . Don't yell at me. What is the problem here?"  He continued to yell " ya gotta be seeeeeriouuuus mon!" Lmao I said "the boy who lives here provided us bread and a beer and he is the only one who can bring HIS OWN pets out, which you seem to be exploiting.So we paid him for his kindness and services." The man again screamed " NOOOO MOOONNNN ya gotta be seeeerious mon!!! Dat bwoy gon get what's coming to hiiimmmmmm!"  I said "dude your out of control, i thought you were here for justice of the land. Now your demanding money and  threatening a child. Here's your stupid 5 bucks. Now calm down. " ( keeping in mind the child had machete burn marks on his face ) The angry man went running up to the house where the kid lives as we left. And all I could say to myself was wow. Whose the Pirate now ??? 
          In the middle of the island there is something called the Big Rock. It is a small pond situated on a huge jutting flat rock face. With nice moss on parts of it and vines hanging down. On the way we were slightly unsure of it's whereabouts. So we pulled over and asked a group of locals. We said " excuse me, do you know where we can find the Big Rock?" Two guys shook their heads. And a woman on a motorcycle growled " we ain't got no rock here mon." They didn't look happy. We drove away confused and then realized what she thought we were referring to and I had to burst out laughing. Within 10 minutes we found the location on our own. 
       As I mentioned before, on our third day we ended up renting a Ranger instead of the golf cart. And re-did everything. The Ranger is a dream compared to the golf cart. The golf cart just putt putted around and pissed off other drivers. Once we had the Ranger for 24 hours we were laughing.  We drove all night and day just because it was beautiful and free and fun. We did not have much time left at this point so we made the best of it.  Not to mention picked up a very nice hitchhiker just because we could. He was very happy for the ride. We were just happy period. 
      The second day we took a boat to Rose Cay and Johnny Cay. Rose Cay is directly beside Haines Cay. Haha Haines Cay! Can ya believe that mom? The boats for all 3 of these Cay's leave at 10am everyday. We rode with the company Casa de la Cultura. It seems like a zoo of a mess, but they will find you. Rose Cay is a natural aquarium with many little pools surrounded by the incredibly coloured waters that open your eyes wider with every gaze into their beckoning distance. The snorkelling is the main attraction here. But after the Galapagos, nothing will ever compare again. Not to mention the gear they give you is torture. If you like to snorkel, definitely get your own.  100%. The only way to be impressed again after the Galapagos is to continue diving. And that is exactly what I plan to do.
        After this extremely crowded tourist attraction, we drove to Johnny Cay. Wow . What a site. It is a small island ran with a natty dreadlock theme. Needless to say I absolutely loved it. You can walk around the whole island and the water is so beautiful. The sand is perfect. And a huge manta ray came to say hello to me. No one else saw him and no one else cared. He knew I would care. He came to the right person. We swam together until I wasn't able to follow him any farther. There was a riptide barrier I was not allowed to pass. I appreciated the greeting more than he knew. We had to pay extra for a water taxi to return to San Andrés as late as we could. It wasn't cheap. But like I said before. Our last days in a continent that has captivated every ounce of my soul deserves all or nothing. 
     We returned to Cartagena and had some bad luck with the hostal we had hoped to stay at. So we decided to do something different for one of the last nights in Colombia. Splurge. We stayed at a place that reminded me of being in  the architecturally artistic streets of Europe. There was a nice terrace and the room had large ceiling beams, with clay tiles and 2 double doors that opened to the breeze that swept over the terrace. Amazing! In Cartagena, we visited the San Felipé castle . It was very cool. Well fortified. I really liked the inner tunnels of the castle. They were perfectly eerie. I told Ryan he should've brought his Jason mask from New Years in Baños . And hid in the shadows and terrified tourists. Lmao in a perfect world I guess. 
      After Cartagena, we took our last bus to Medellin. The one city we really wanted to spend time in. It's really beautiful. And not only this, but it was refreshingly adapted to our North American culture. We took a day trip to Guatapé. It is a very unique place. Like no other we had seen yet. After 4 months on the open road living out of a backpack, we were still finding new sights that resembled nothing else we had seen yet. On our last 2 days in Medellin we were truly pushing the limits. The steps that are stitched up the side of this impressive rock/random mountain like protrusion were a total of 740 I believe. The 360 degree view is ,,....... ( I am trying not to say the words jaw dropping again, but I am finding it hard lol ) panoramic and has everything you could want in a view. Water, islands, mountains, blue, green, and tonnes of sky. We took really funky vehicles up and down. Miniature cars. A miniature drop top old bug. And a horse drawn style cart with wheels. One up and one down as to not miss our last bus out of Guatapé. The town of Guatapé is very pretty. It was like a big Salento. Extremely colourful. The houses and tiny stone streets were sculpted and painted individually. Making for an original piece of art with every corner you turned. 
      We were anxiously awaiting seeing our Medellin friends that we met in San Gil. Paola and Andrés. Paola took us out to a great bar. Music by request, and a tree'ed in yard with tonnes of different tree stumps as tables and chairs. What a refreshing idea it was. We ran into a group of English people. And remember that DJ set I said at the beginning was my favourite mix before my iPod got jacked?! Like one of my favourite drum ' n ' bass dj's ?! Well we partied with his producer and ex girlfriend on our last night in random Medellin!!!!! Haha yup. The odds of that are juuuust ridiculous. I was SO happy with our final night on the adventure of a lifetime. Thank you Paola for a truly memorable last hoorah. 
      Our last day in Medellin we had one more thing on the bucket list. And the fact that this even happened is still absolutely SICKER THAN SICK!!!! It is not a popular tourist destination. And the locals will not help you get there due to a large amount of controversy. I had to do some research and really push our cabbie. It was like a treasure hunt. But we made it. To Pablo Escobars grave. His family's plot is the most elaborate in the cemetery. We had a moment of silence for 'El Padrino'. His full name is Pablo Escobar Emilio Gaviria. I have goosebumps writing this. We poured one down for the most successful gangster of all time. And this to me is one of the coolest pictures we could have captured in our last hours before our series of 3 flights home. And I got a bonus surprise! Yay. There was another historically fascinating person buried here as well. The Black Widow! The mysterious woman who religiously attended Rudy Valentino's mausoleum annually. Whose real name is Griselda Blanco De Trujillo. I found it ironic that the infamous Black Widow's middle name is Blanco. Which means white. I had a few silent words for her as well before we headed back to the hotel to pack in absolute sadness.
      But there are a few things I cannot have on the road and that is my mother, my family, my beautiful cat Angel, my homegirls, and my homies. And that is something I can not wait to return home to. These are things from home, that only home can give me. Nowhere else. As much as I will continue my adventures, I will always return home to the comfort, sights and smells of love and familiarity. 

Monday 17 February 2014

Adventure is mi Amoré

Okay I have to start by saying this. That spider I was talking about? That we stumbled upon in utter terror in the jungle at night? I did some research and it was the Brazilian Wandering spider. It is considered to be the MOST venomous spider in the world!!!!! Lol go figure. 2 arachnophobics find this thing. What can we expect hunting for species in the jungle at night though,.... Really.... Pfffft. I must say. Camping at home will never compare to camping at Tayrona. But at least I will know that these guys are not lurking near my tent. Lmao. My spine is tingling as I write this. But at least everything was balanced out by the sloth. He is by far the cutest species I have EVER seen in my life. I want to rescue them one day. Many of them. They are such loving, curious creatures. And unfortunately this gets them into trouble. Captive trouble. ;-( 
      Today we did our first dive ,......ever!!! Yayyyyy. It was the most amazing feeling. It is quite dangerous if you aren't totally zen about it. But if you are, it is a feeling of total freedom. The ability to do something humans can not. Breathe underwater. The deeper you get, the most you have to equalize, making for a strange crunchy orchestra in your ears. Snorkelling is fun and beautiful. But if ya really wanna get in there and crawl along the oceans floor, diving is the way to go. We were walking and sitting on the ocean floor like astronauts. I found some shells and saw tonnes of fish. Very many plant species. Some of which were a plant animal merge and acted quite quirky. You would turn around, see them, and turn back around again and they would be acting quite different. It was then I realized this was the little underwater shop of horrors and the plants weren't quite what they seemed. Hahaha we saw a sea turtle, but since this isn't the magical Galapagos, he was quite startled by us and didn't stick around for long.  The most amazing thing to me was how lost you can get. A few meters and your crew is gone, leaving you panicking and alone. But the watchful guide gave me the ol tap on the shoulder and signalled " that way" . A comforting experience. Because looking up not only distorted me directionally, but seemed a mile away. And if you go up too fast, you will blow your ears out. The weights on my belt, and my jacket decompressor made it much easier for this not to happen. Bubbles. Lots of bubbles. Thank you Nautilus Diving Center on the Taganga beach strip for an unforgettable day. You have fuelled me to get my liscence. But if I wanna spend my last days here seeing more of the northern Colombian coast, I will have to save that for future endeavours and get the heck outta Taganga. We are definitely at local status at this point. I love it, but it's time to move on. Thanks again to Hostal Graffitti for being absolutely wonderful hosts the second time around. We will never forget you. P.s. sorry about the sink lol 

Friday 14 February 2014

Ninja alien

Cabo San Juan

Colombian Beach Bummin

   When we made it to Santa Marta, we were SOOOO happy to see the ocean. After 3 months of trekking, we decided to just be beach bums. And it was something i feel we both deserved at this point. Straight from the bus stop we took a taxi to Taganga. The beeeeaaach! Yaaayyyyyy. We could have taken a collectivo for much cheaper, but we jumped on the first ride to the ocean. Nothing makes a Pisces happier than diving into water.  We stayed at Hostal Techos Azule. It was our friend, Sixo's suggestion. We enjoyed it. The hammock patio was amazing. So was the view.
     Taganga is very laid back. Where people just open up to you. Being yourself is exactly what it's all about. It's a very fun beach town, surrounded by mountains in a cove where the sun sets perfectly. The night life is " sittin in the corners by the convenience stores on the beach strip like Easy E " type fun" lol 
Night swims are great here because it's the perfect temperature. You can't go wrong diving off the rocks at the far end of the cove. While we were here, days and nights just flew by. A little too much fun on the last leg of our trip. ;). So we decided to isolate ourselves. And hike through the jungle to the very beautiful Tayrona National Park.
       To get to this beach you really gotta earn it.  It's about a 1 hour and 45 minute, advanced hike with all of your gear.  The first time in, we took a horse.  The EXTREMELY un attentive horse guide was very unprofessional. It seemed to me that they only cared about making the 32.000cop , and not the safety of the riders. Firstly I thought the horse would properly be strapped with our gear. He was NOT. The food bag full of canned goods and fruit was beyond heavy. They slung it from the right side of his neck and hung it off of the poor guys saddle. You could tell he was suffering. And we carried our own gear on the horse. They work these horses to the boooooone. I feel awful for them. There was a pen where they kept the horses that had literally been worked to almost death. You could tell they were sick and had the saddest giant eyes I have ever seen. Tears came to my eyes when I saw this. Also when I saw a tied together train of 7 mules. The 6th one was crying and doing everything in his power to NOT take the 1 hour and 45 minute, VERY difficult trek for god knows how many times that day again. Or maybe his saddle was poorly strapped and was pinching him. He NEEDED attention quite bad. The worker paid 0 attention to this and continued to drag the poor thing unwillingly. I don't even wanna know what happened to him on the way. These beautiful creatures are the only reason there is anything civilized that far into paradise. They were treated with very little respect. Sickening. 
     But back to my horse. He was very irate. I kept trying to hold up some of the weight on his neck from the ridiculously heavy food bag. He kept pulling at it. MANY times I tried to let the absent minded guide know of his discomfort. He didn't give a shit. He just kept smiling and giving me the thumbs up. It was annoying to say the least. After many attempts, I decided to move the bag onto my stomach by myself while riding. I went to un loop it and noticed it was ripping severely. I let the guide know AGAIN and he ignored the look of sheer terror in my eyes. Siiiigh. Sure enough it happened. The bag tore quite loudly and smashed on the ground. My horse spooked and took off into the steep jutting rocks and almost over a cliff !!! At the very last second he ripped a hard right and returned to the trail at full speed. I thought for sure I was dead. I was very tempted to throw myself off onto the giant rocks, because I had NO idea where he was going and if he would ever stop. But I made a final decision at the thought of crushed bones and decided instead to throw the rest of my luggage off and hold on for dear life. I racked my brain for the noise the stupid guide made to make them stop. After a few tries, I finally got it. And the galloping came to a light canter, then a trot , a walk, and then stopped. A this point I hugged his neck and thanked him for not killing me.. Needless to say after this experience the rest of the ride was quite unnerving. I was  sweating so badly and now holding the food bag and practically falling off on every steep downwards hill. He kept choosing a path, then quickly darting another way . Very unpredictable behaviour. So I was on ice the entire time. 
       Upon my safe arrival to the camp, I was very glad to touch ground. My knees hurt so incredibly badly I could barely stand. This all sounds very dramatic, but I kid you not. If you do have a lot of gear, also make sure whoever drops you off at the ticket booth, drives you to Cañaveral where the horses are. Or you have you walk an extra 45 min.- hour more. Not cool with that much gear in that type of heat.  Looking back, your best bet is to walk the walkers path and have an equally weighted mule carry your gear and meet you there. But if ya want a quicker, easier trail, you can also walk the mule trail.
       Once we started to see water it was a relief. And once we finally arrived in Cabo San Juan it all had finally paid off. This is the most beautiful beach I have ever seen in my life! The massive house and car size rocks that start to grow in size on the path get bigger and more shapely. The walkers path is by far the most scenic. It reminded me of some sort of mission in The Lord Of The Rings. These unique formations eventually guide you from the jungle to the ocean. This part of the journey is very rewarding.  We decided to camp at Cabo San Juan. When you see this campsite after the endless walk its like a sigh of sweaty relief one can never truly forget.  It is absolutely jaw dropping. The giant rocks and big waves burst into your vision like a mirage. You wonder if your dreaming. 
       We spent our days climbing massive rocks and finding cool nooks. There is lots of beach to discover and the power of the ocean has a very special energy.  It is a sauna in the tent but cooled down perfectly at night. So sleeping was tolerable. The best move we made was BRINGING OUR OWN FOOD AND WATER. Everything is very expensive here. Surviving off of fruit, granola, sardines, tuna sandwiches and peanut butter and jam sandwiches was just fine with me. Not to mention the abundant amount of fresh coconuts on the ground. The chore of extracting their insides got easier with every one. this was Ryan's job ;-P. We planned to stay for 4 days.  But ended up staying for 6. Depending on how much time you have, it is hard not to. #1) The view and beach is something special. #2) Who wouldn't want to camp in front of the rushing waves of the ocean on the edge of the jungle for as long as they could? And #3) Avoiding the trek for as long as possible is key ......Lol. After going through 22 litres of water , the weight of the gear on the way back is a breeze. We did it at night. Very cool because your all alone trekking the deep jungle with headlamps. We ran into an indigenous boy on horseback and many exotic sounds. 
        The night before that we did a night walk at camp where we could actually take our time. It was amazing! " We made the night walk !" Just for you Dario. Straight off the bat there were tonnes of huge bats. One went in my hair ( yes it's no myth) and into my face. Just off of camp, we encountered a lone white horse in the field. He was so beautiful. His bright coat on the pitch black background was a spooky and wonderful contrast. We continued only 2 minutes and saw some rather large glowing eyes. Then another pair. Then more. It was a pack of coatis! They are dog like raccoon relatives I believe. With long snouts and very long striped tails. Hooray. They crept us as we crept them. They stayed far away enough to watch us,......while we watched them hahaha. Creep-Fest. After this we realized how intensely my LED Energizer headlamp picked up the glowing eyes of anything with night vision. The spiders is what really got me though. The amount of spider eyes I could see beneath us increased DRASTICALLY as the night got darker. Until I was counting hundreds. Suddenly a pair of bright eyes really stood out to me. They were the biggest spider eyes i had seen yet. So I investigated . It was the MOST MENACING SPIDER WE HAVE EVER SEEEEEN IN OUR ENTIRE LIVES!!!!!!!! I thought at first it was a tarantula.  Upon closer inspection I realized how badly I was wishing for the tame pet like tarantula. This thing was the size of a hand. Hairy. It had a face for god's sake. And it looked powerful,  lemme tell you. It would be up your leg in half a second! Aaayyyeeeeeeebbbuudddyyyyy.... Whatever that means. Lol After getting some pics of this disturbing night hunter, we saw something even cooler. The biggest glowing eyes of the night. What at first appeared to be a monkey, sure didn't act like one. It's eyes were too far apart and it's very slight movements were very calm. After ruling out that it was a ninja-alien, we realized it was a three toed sloth ! He was right in front of us! Staring at us. Amazing. It must've come down for its weekly, nighttime excrement trip. He was beautiful. The biggest, kindest, glowing eyes. We felt truly honoured. After we left him, we decided to head back to camp because we were more than satisfied. Yessss night walk !  
            On our last 15 min before the final collectivo we had no way to the ticket booth/road stop. So we used our last Colombian Peso's for a refreshing swift motorcycle ride through the windy road back into civilization. It was exhilarating to say the least. 
     Oh yeah and some pathetic girls robbed me of my iPod and speaker box half way through our time there. This is a minor detail because it can be replaced. Their moral-less sad existence will live on. And so will my smile. They are not powerful enough to ruin my happiness in paradise.
       When we arrived back in Taganga, we had planned to stay one night only.  We found a hostel called Hostal Graffiti. It put a new spin on things. so we stayed longer than one night. But once again the Taganga trap sucked us in. It's been 6 days. ugh . It's way too easy to stay here. Many travellers we have met ended up staying here for longer than they had expected and just never left. We feared this. So we decided to do something spontaneous to break the chain on our last days here. Tomorrow we have a discovery dive booked with Nautilus Dive Center. If we like it, we can put it towards an international liscence. If not we say bye bye and head towards Palomino. I have never dove before, just snorkelled a lot. Can't wait. 

Monday 3 February 2014

Good pic of me on this link


   Well , we are far past San Gil. Our last day there we went to the Juan Curi waterfall. It was spectacular. We climbed very high, very quickly. For some reason on the path's were supposed to follow,....or not follow,....we keep ending up accidentally climbing mountains. Straight up. ..... Literally. Haha. But to end up at waterfalls like this? I would strand myself daily. We decided to swim in the ice water right where the ' water falls' the giant spiders were pissed we discovered their nook. 
      Our plan was to go to Venezuela . To see Angel Falls. The highest falling water in the world. Then to go to Margarita Island and Parque National Mochima. But unfortunately when we arrived in Cucuta we got malled. I have never had that many hands near me in my life . We changed as much as we could into Bolivars and some American dollars. Once we reached the Frontera ( border ), things got worse. It was clear to us that we were not welcome. And that the 50 people trying to illegally sneak is through was a sign. Not to mention trying to shove us in their vehicles. It's sad to say the political situation  there is not safe whatsoever at the moment. Especially for us. So we turned around while standing on the 800 meter walk through no man's land on the way to San Cristobal,Venezuela. I really wanted to see the beauty that Venezuela holds, and volunteer in any way possible, but sometimes my adventurous soul has to stop the trek somewhere. We were far outta the way when we made this decision. 
      We spent the day in Cucuta waiting for the bus to Santa Marta. We took the night bus. The 11 hour ride was slightly unnerving. It was a long and extended mountain cliff composed of rubble and MASSIVE drops. In the middle of the nowhere night. Lol I feel silly now, but at the time I was a wee bit terrified ;-P. I really wish I could have seen it in the daylight. The peaks were so high. Looming over us majestically. There's no counting the amount of times the bus came to barely a crawl. Just to not burst a tire on the jutting rocks or slide off the edge. Lol needless to say it was hard catch any shut eye. I was like a lemur constantly making a sight spot on the condensed window glass. Just to get a grasp of why it felt like we were rolling through a washing machine lol.